Naejangsan is *the* autumn destination in Korea, a country already resplendent in beauty. Why here? The park boasts thirty species of trees that create a forty color palette for the fall season. For us, it was our first time truly experiencing the riotous colors of the changing season. The result of this flamboyant display is a party atmosphere at the park. It can get extremely crowded at peak season, even on a weekday when we went. Vendors...

Although we arrived in Busan, it took us awhile to return and actually see the city. The international port city surprised us with a potpourri of activities: hiking (of course), history, shopping, and food! While we missed out on the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, we did get to see the Jagalchi Market in Busan. Rows and rows of vendors beckon every visitor to buy very live seafood from their stalls, which can then be carried upstairs to be...

Two ancient religious sites sit on the outskirts of Gyeongju: Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto. At Bulguksa, we walked through perhaps the best example of Silla era Buddhist architecture. Pilgrims are greeted with a 33 step staircase, corresponding to the same number of steps to enlightenment (although the steps are only open once a year). Within the temple complex sit two stone pagodas, silent witnesses to over one thousand years of...

On the surface, Gyeongju seems to have an unusually high concentration of perfectly shaped and manicured hills. So what’s the story behind the citywide landscaping? Each mound is actually an ancient tomb dating back to the 5th and 6th century, hiding the royal house of the thousand year Silla dynasty. For a closer look at the tombs, Daereungwon Tomb complex encloses twenty three tombs and a network of sidewalks for strolls all around the...

When Queen Elizabeth II visited Korea, she asked to visit the best preserved, traditional village. Her hosts brought her to Hahoe Folk Village about one hour outside Andong on her birthday. The village was founded in the 16th century, and the numerous houses are all originals built in the 1500s and 1600s, remaining in the same family from generation to generation. To be honest, our visit was somewhat awkward as these homes are not relics, but...

Tired of hiking yet? This part of Seoraksan is reserved for the weary. A cable car unloads about fifty people every fifteen minutes close to the top Gwongeunseong, all without breaking a sweat. The accessibility makes this easy ride extremely popular; be prepared to wait two hours or more for a hitch. Thankfully, you can purchase tickets for a specific time, so we opted for the late afternoon in hopes of catching the sunset. After a short...

Yukdam and Biryong Falls offer a pleasant and easy two hour roundtrip hike to another part of Seoraksan. Yukdam Pokpo is a series of six waterfalls that gradually descend down the valley. Each waterfall carved its own unique shape and collection area before moving on to the next drop. At the end of the trail, Biryeong (Flying Dragon) Pokpo feeds into a pond and serves as a natural picnic area, complete with amphitheater seating. While the...

Here’s the granddaddy hike of Outer Seoraksan: Ulsan Bawi. Legend tells us that GOD called all the rocks together to create the most beautiful mountain in the world. Ulsan got there too late due to its ponderous size, but on gazing out at the beauty of Seorak, decided to settle into its present location. It takes two hours to hike to the top of the granite peak, and the last 45 minutes is straight up 808 metal steps. Yet, the trail will...

When we were planning our trip last year, we asked our Korean-American friends where should we go. Almost every person mentioned two places: Seoraksan and Jeju-Do. Lucky for us, we had arrived just in time for autumn, and when the fall winds blow in, the landscape in Korea reduces conversation to gasps and whispers. Seoraksan is just off the northeast coast of South Korea and represents the most spectacular scenery of the Korean peninsula. ...

Suwon sits just a one hour train ride outside of Seoul and invites visitors to actually walk and touch two hundred years of history. The central attraction is the UNESCO-designated Hwaseong Fortress built from 1794 to 1796. Fortress is a misleading name as the walls enclose 320 acres of land. Most of the wall and many of the watchtowers have survived since the Joseon dynasty, and even the reconstructions of towers destroyed in the Korean War...